If it has slowed down:

This problem is caused by a few things. It depends on the age of the unit and the type of unit you have.

• If you have a new unit, first check the supply connection. Sometimes, it may not be installed properly. This happens especially with the supply valve. Sometimes the needle does not always pierce all of the way in. Also, check and make sure that any flush valves are closed. If these things don not help, check the pre-filters by removing one at a time (making sure you replace the one removed when moving to the next filter). Normally, it's one of these things that effect new units. If neither of these help, please contact us.

• If you have an older unit, it could be time to replace your filters or the ASOV. If the ASOV fails, it can get stuck in a position to allow most of the water to flow to the drain instead of making pure water. Try flushing off the filters first for about 10 minutes. Also, check and make sure there are no clogs in the lines from anything.

• If you have a drinking water unit with a pressurized storage tank, then it may be the bladder in the tank. Most people with drinking water systems gauge their flow on how it comes out of the RO faucet. If it slows down, it's probably the bladder tank. If not, please check all of the above.

• For reefkeeping units, there isn't much else to do.

If your water has stopped:

Again, this can be caused by a few things and also depends on the age and type of the unit.

• For a new unit, check the lines to see where the flow stops. Again, make sure that all flush valves are closed on your unit. If the flow stops after the RO membrane, remove the fitting that the pure water should be coming out at. Check the Teflon tape wrapping and make sure that it isn't covering the check valve (looks like a metal spring). Try blowing in the fitting from both directions. The flow should be letting the air/water out, but not back in. If the flow stopped before the membrane, check which pre-filter it stops at. If it's still flowing through the pre-filters, but not making it to the membrane, check the ASOV/permeate pump.

• For an older unit, everything you check for on the new unit is the same with one exception: the membrane itself. If flushing and checking all of the lines does not yield results, then it might be the membrane. Though this can be the case for newer units as well (receiving a defective membrane), the chances of that is much less than if you have an older unit.

• For units with a pressure tank, check everything above. If you cannot find anything wrong with the unit, it may be that the pressurized storage tank's bladder has burst. This is a natural occurrence as the tank gets older. Most of the time, this only occurs every 5-10 years of operating. If you have a newer unit (within 1year), please let us know. Newer tanks should not have that problem.

Please note that the permeate pump replaces the ASOV. If you have a unit that's flow has slowed or stopped with a permeate pump involved, these tests do not change.

Leaks happen all of the time. There are many different reasons why a leak would form, but that's not as important as knowing how to stop them.

Leaks from fittings:

There's a few reasons why a fitting would leak. It could be cracked/broken, not have enough Teflon wrapped around the threads or the O-ring could be offset inside the push-in fitting.

How do you fix?

• For cracked or broken fittings, they just need to be replaced. We will be happy to send out a replacement for free - (See Our Warranty Page First) or a local hardware store should carry them.

• For male threaded fittings, the leak will come out from the connection one drip at a time. This can be fixed by adding 2-5 wraps of Teflon tape. Be careful, though, because adding too much Teflon will cause the part that the fitting is screwed into to crack (sooner or later).

• For push-in fittings, the leak will be slow as well. Try removing the "collar" that holds the tubing in place and take a needle (or something small enough to reach inside) and readjust the O-ring. If this does not work, let us know so we can send a replacement.

• Another thing can happen with push-in fittings, though, it's not necessary a leak (though it will cause plenty of water to fly around). If your "collar" is not holding the tubing properly, the pressure from the water can cause it to come undone and spray water everywhere (depending on the pressure). We can send out a new collet (aka the "collar") out for free. Again, most parts can be found at a local hardware store if it's an emergancy.

Leaks from the unit:

Most of these are due to age. A part might weaken from use over the years. These usually happen without any warning and can cause a lot of water to spill out.

Leaks from the housing are the most common. They can be from a different number of reason though.

• Heavy leaks from the top of the housing where the cap and bottom meet are caused by cracks in the housing cap. Most people will think that it's their O-ring that's offset, but heavy leaks from there are usually the cracked cap scenario. We can send out a replacement for free (again, see our warranty page first).

• Slow leaks from the housing where the cap and bottom meet are usually the O-ring or a filter. Make sure that there isn't a crack in the cap first to be safe. Check and see if there's any dirt, cuts or kinks in the O-ring. If so, let us know and we can send out a replacement. If it's the filter, just tighten the housing down a little more. Use the filter wrench if needed. Sometimes a filter might be slightly taller than normal, so a little more tightening is needed.

• Leaks around other parts can occur as well. They are less likely, but not impossible. If you have leaks somewhere else, let us know and we'll help with troublshooting and replacement (if need be).

Again, everything is based upon our Limited Warranty. Please read the warranty page before sending in a warranty claim.

Waste water flowing continuously can be a couple of things. The main things are the ASOV failing or the filters (especially the pre-filters) being clogged.

The ASOV can be easily replaced. Filters will need to be ordered. Every once in a while, the flow restrictor will fail. Though this normally doesn't happen, we will replace it if need be.

Another problem (mainly for newer units) might be low feed water pressure. Remember, the RO membrane needs at least 35-40 psi in order to operate properly. Anything below that will slow (or stop) water production while increasing waste water flow.

• Again, make sure to read our warranty page first.

Adjust the pressure switch. If the pressure switch isn't adjusted properly, then the pump will never come on or shut off properly. If you have our Power Station, you will have to adjust both the pressure switch and the chrome bypass valve. The switch is very sensitive. Keep turning the screw down even if it reaches the bottom. It does not stop turning because it is still adjusting the switch.

There is a possibility that the switch itself is defective and we can replace it (if the pump was bought from us). This doesn't happen very often, though. Please try the things mentioned above first.

The 50, 75 and 150 GPD membranes should be able to reduce the TDS from your tap by 95 - 98%. The 100 GPD membrane should reject it by 90 - 95%. The lowest accepted is 90%.

If it's a new membrane, make sure you have flushed it off. It might also be that the membrane wasn't seated right. An older membrane should be flushed off. Make sure that there isn't any hardness or iron build-up on the membrane. Also make sure that there isn't any chlorine getting to the membrane. Also, make sure that the pre-filters are not clogged and that the water is not very cold (40 degrees or below). Remember, low pressure causes the membrane to work less efficiently.

If all of those things are fine and the membrane rejection has not improved, please let us know.

The DI is supposed to remove the TDS completely from the water. Usually, this is used after a RO membrane for lengthening the life of the DI.

Even if the RO membrane is reducing the TDS, you do not know what's in that remaining TDS. If it's nitrates, phosphates, silicates, etc., it could be that it's exhausting the DI faster than normal.

If it's not that, check and see if your allowing the water to flow too fast through the DI. Normal operating flow through the DI should be between .2 and .5 gallons per minute. Any faster than that and the DI will either exhaust faster or not reduce the TDS down to zero (though it will still be low).

It could also mean that you need a special mix of DI resin other than the 50/50 we use as our mixed bed resin.

Please contact us if everything checks out, but the DI is still exhausting too fast.

Water Temperature:

Usually, the supply line is installed on the cold water line. This is because hot water lines are above the 100 degree limit of the RO membrane. Of course, freezing temperatures will freeze the membrane and cause it to foul.

If your water is cold; try to get a bucket (or something to hold water in) and some extra supply tubing (about 10-15 feet). Coil the tubing in the bucket and fill the bucket with hot water. This will gradually heat the water back up.

For hot water, a chiller before the unit would be okay. You can also use the bucket trick, but fill it with cold water and/or ice.

You can mix hot and cold water (especially if you have the faucet adaptor), but we recommend the bucket method more.

Water Pressure:

If it's low, get a booster pump. They're easy to install and work great. If it's too high without a booster pump, get a pressure regulator. These are also easy to install and use.
Remember; clear housings can only withstand up to 75 psi. White housings can withstand up to 100 psi.

Hand-held TDS Meter:

• Faded Numbers - Fading numbers usually mean that the battery needs to be replaced. This is a simple fix.

• Jumping Readings - If the probe hasn't had the chance to settle or if the probe has moved, then your readings can bounce up and down before giving an accurate measurement. If it never settles, try redoing the test using a fresh sample.

• Inaccurate Readings - This could mean that you need to calibrate the meter using the calibration solution. It could also mean that you need to replace the battery. If you try the battery first and still do not get a change, use the solution. If neither works, then you may need a replacement meter.

Dual TDS Meter:

This is about the same as the hand-held. The only difference is the probe. If you have readings that jump around, remove the probes from the fittings (with the water off) and reset them. The same process applies to using the calibration solution.

TDS Alarm (Extreme Typhoon III):

The alarm is a different matter than the TDS meters. It only has two lights; a red and green light. The green light might never come on due to our calibration of the alarm. The only light you have to worry about is the red one. If the TDS coming out of the DI is 15 ppm, the red light will come on. To test this, simply remove the probe from the fitting and put it in a glass of tap water. If it does not come on, then replace the batteries. If nothing works, let us know.

Two things could be causing this problem:

1) Not enough air to create the pressure. The storage tank has a bladder that stores the water and is surrounded by air to create pressure. If this air pressure drops, then the tank will not be able to push the water up. Filling it back up with air using the port on the side of the tank takes care of this problem. Usually, adding 10-15 psi is all it takes. All you need is a bike tire pump or an air compressor.

2) The bladder burst. This is indicated by the same thing. The only difference is that it will not hold the pressure when you refill it with air.

If the bladder has burst, please let us know.