All of all reefkeeper units make the same quality water. The difference in Typhoon, Typhoon III & Extreme Typhoon III? FEATURES!!
They all have the same filters, membrane and DI (to a degree). They all produce zero TDS water. The difference is in the features.

The Typhoon is a great basic unit. It comes with a built-in flush valve. Outside of this, there isn't any other feature. This is all you really need.

The Typhoon III has a RO only valve, which allows you to get water, before it goes through the DI. This is good for filling up bottles of water of drinking water and for testing the water coming out of the membrane. It also has a DI bypass, and fast flush valves, which help to extend the life the DI and membrane. The Typhoon III also comes with a hand held TDS meter. The TDS meter is used to measure the total dissolved solids.

The Extreme Typhoon III has all of the features the Typhoon III , but also includes a 150 GPD membrane, built-in dual TDS meter, TDS alarm, float valve and optional catalytic carbon filter (in place of the 5 micron carbon block filter).

The 75 GPD membrane is usually the preferred membrane to use. It has a good rejection rate (about 97% [stabilized]) and makes up to 3 gallons/hour.

The 100 GPD membrane has a lower rejection rate (about 90% [stabilized]). As mentioned before; the lower the rejection rate, the harder the DI has to work. Unless you need higher volumes of water, it's not recommended to use this membrane.

So, what about the 150 GPD membrane? Does it have the same issue?

No. The 150 GPD membrane was designed differently. It has a good rejection rate (about 98% [stabilized]) and allows for high flow. Though this membrane has this special feature, it's not recommended to use unless you have high volume needs.

The Typhoon models are more for aquariums with higher volume needs. They come with standard filters and a vertical DI* (6,800 grains capacity).

The Compact reefkeeper models are more for aquariums with lower volume needs (100 and below gallon tanks). These can be used for larger aquariums (especially if space is an issue), but the DI might exhaust faster. This is because the use the in-line DI* (3,400 grains capacity).

The Dual Home Reef models are a good step if you have both aquarium needs as well as a need for drinking water. While the old and new style models use the in-line DI filters*, the Hurricane model uses a vertical DI*.

As with most DI units, a trash can or other open-storage tank is used for the DI water. With the Dual Home Reef units, a pressurized storage tank is included for the drinking water, but the DI line is separate from it. Though you can use the pressure tank for the DI storage, the high flow coming out of a pressure tank will cause a DI to exhaust faster.

• For calculations on how long a DI will last, please look at the FAQ for the DI filters.

When you get a new unit, you should flush off or run about 3 gallons of water through the system. This is to remove any carbon fines and preservatives off of the RO membrane.

If you have the Fast Flush and/or DI Bypass valves, open them for the flush. On a new unit, remember to flush for 3 gallons or one hour (which ever comes first/easiest is fine).

After installing new filters (excluding the RO membrane), a good 5-15 minute flush is fine. If you install a new membrane, a good 30 minute flush is needed.

On all of these units (with the exceptions of the Hurricane Dual and the Mighty Mite with DI) is the ASOV (automatic shut off valve). It's activated whenever there is back-pressure on the output line. If there's no back-pressure, it lets the water run. If there is back-pressure, it shuts it off.

All you need for this is either a ball valve for manual shut off or a float valve for a completely automated shut off system.

On the Hurricane, the ASOV has been replaced by the permeate pump. The Mighty Mite with DI has no shut off switch because you normally shut it off at the source, not the product (pure) water.

As mentioned before in our filters, membrane and DI FAQ pages, the filters need to be replaced when:

Pre-filters should be replaced at least annually. They include the 10 micron sediment filter, the 5 micron carbon block or catalytic carbon filter and the 1 micron carbon block filter (if one is installed).
>The sediment filter does tend to look like it's getting dirtier faster than the others. This is normal. Since it's the first filter, it's removing most of the heavy particulate matter. IF water production slows, see if it's the sediment filter first.

The RO membrane needs to be replaced every 3-5 years. If your water is hard and you do not have a softener, then you may need a larger flow restrictor. This is just a temporary measure and will only slow down the scaling process.*

The DI is based upon how well the RO removes TDS from the water.** Though we recommend replacing it at least annually, it may need to be changed more or less often. Go by TDS readings instead. If the TDS is above 5 ppm {stabilized), then you should replace the DI.

• See www.filmtec.com for warranty details
• *See our DI FAQ page for calculations